Thursday, December 23, 2021

Beneficial Microbes - What I Didn't Know and Maybe You Should

 

The following is a distillation of what I found when I went looking for credible information on the best practices of taking advantage of beneficial microbes in hydroponics. There’s a distinct lack of research specific to hydroponics and little enough on beneficial microbes in practical situations.


However, for all that some of the details are vague, it’s clear that (1) there are important benefits, (2) routine sterilization invites pathogens to flourish and (3) there are logical workflows to establishing and maintaining a healthy microbial root-oriented community. Frankly, is had brought me a sea change and a new and embarrassingly slow to arrive view of how to operate. I know I became accustomed to thinking only about soil microbes becoming redundant because we in hydroponics don’t depend on them to convert compounds for plant use. But there’s a whole other world being supported, and plants and the symbiotic and even selfishly beneficial microbes they host have to be viewed, I think, as intimately integrated growing units, just as they are in soil.

Sterile systems are not automatically a good thing. Pathogens still threaten, and a sterile system is like open house. Our nutrient solutions can grow many pathogens. And in most of our systems, circulating nutrient will carry any pathogen to all the plants in that system. Additionally, because we try to run closed systems, any toxins from the pathogens remain unaffected and circulating.

The most common pathogens found in hydroponic systems are Fusarium, Phytophthora and Pythium. Pythium are root pathogens spread in water that cause root rot. Pythium varieties affect different plants. Fusarium causes wilt and root diseases, for instance root rot in basil, lettuce and tomato.

There are technical and chemical strategies to deal with those, but they are expensive and can offer unpleasant things like fungicide toxicity. They may also kill off beneficial bacteria.

The following is intended to be merely an orientation to the subject. That’s because an orientation is about all one can deliver without making statements with more confidence than is justified. We have some principles. But we are a long way from knowing everything and in hydroponics, a very long way from a comprehensive grasp of practical best practices.

The science of applying beneficial microbes is complex. It is often over-simplified by those marketing the microbes as beneficial. And much of what they claim may be derived from soil-based research, and a soil environment is very different from a hydroponic environment in many ways. And makers are prone to jumping on soil studies that are not necessarily replicable, even in other soil studies. And there is always the difference between what happens in the lab and the real world. They take advantage of the fact the most people do not understand what academic studies are intended to do. They are not intended to deliver the last word in actual practice. They mostly merely point the way to the next study.

But we do have beneficial bacteria to call on. And by beneficial, I mean useful both to control pathogens and to actually enhance plant growth. One thing we have on our side is that beneficial bacteria work well to control disease in controlled environments like hydroponic systems.

First, the enemies:

Phytophthora - Want a villain? This one’s very name means “plant destroyer.” It’s a water mold, a fungus-like organism, and very aggressive. Infected plants cannot feed.

Fusaium oxysporum - Everyone’s favorite fungus bad guy, even when he’s wrongly accused. A very common soil fungus. Fusarium wilt is almost a generic term, even when it’s not caused by Fusarium. Bad all around for plants, causing chlorosis (loss of color), leaf drop, stunting, etc. The wilt happens when the plants response closes off water transport channels.

Pythium - We know this guy. Along with Fusarium, one of the root rot gang. An opportunistic fungus-like pathogen, looking for a plant weakened and stressed by any environmental condition, including poor aeration. He’s also the villain in what is known as damping off in seedlings. He’s one of the reasons we try to keep soil out of our systems. His spores live in soil and so can be carried on shoes, hands and clothing.

Beneficial microbes may have one or more mechanism of controlling pathogens. As a parasite on a pathogenic microbe, the beneficial microbe hits a target pathogen by breaking into the cell wall of the pathogen. A beneficial microbe may share an ecological niche with a pathogen and compete successfully with it for resources. A beneficial microbe may produce a substance that is a toxin for other microbes. One beneficial microbe may produce toxins effective against different fungal pathogens. Still others induce in plants resistance to heat, frost, drought of salt, as well as resistance to pathogens.

The following are some beneficial bacteria. Bacteria set up symbiotic relationships with plants. Both the bacteria and the plant gain benefit. The bacteria may produce enzymes and antibiotics that control pathogens. They and the plants happen to have a common enemy. The antibiotics are both toxins for the pathogens and induce defense mechanisms in the host plant. The enzymes attack the cell wall of the pathogen, which gives the toxins better access. All those long years of plant evolution alongside microbes have taught both how to cooperate.

The good guys:

Pseudomonas, which include various species of gram-negative bacteria, are hosted by bean, carnation, chickpea, cucumber, lettuce, peppers, potato, radish, and tomato.

Bacillus, gram-positive rod-shaped bacteria of the species amyloliquefaciens, cereus, subtilis, and thuringiensis are hosted by carrot, chrysanthemum, cucumber, lettuce, pepper, and tomato. Amyloliquefaciens,  is the inoculant in Botanicare Hydroguard.

Enterobacter, species Aerogenes, is hosted by cucumber

Streptomyces, species Griseoviridis is hosted by Cucumber and tomato

A beneficial fungus, Gliocladium, species catenulatum, is hosted by cucumber and tomato

Trichoderma, species Asperellum, atroviride, harzianum and virens are hosted by bean, cotton, cucumber, maize and rice, among others. This is a fungus common in root systems and is a parasite on other fungi. So far, no fungi we desired to control was not subject to control by Trichoderma. Trichoderma have another trick. It can penetrate the cell walls of the root system where the plant triggers an immune response to wall off the fungus to prevent it getting any further. And this becomes a natural defense against pathogenic fungi. In exchange. Trichoderma gets exclusive fungal use of food from the plant. Trichoderma do best in healthy roots, so they act to maintain and encourage root health. Some strains of Trichoderma improve uptake of several nutrients.

They each have their ways.

Tricoderma harzianum controls Fusarium, Pythjium and Rhizoctonia.

Ampelomyces quisqualis is a vicious parasite on powdery mildew.

Bacillussubtillis produces antifungals effective against several pathogenic fungi.

Pseudomonus cepacea inhibits a wide range of fungals.

Pseudomonas putida and Trichoderma atroviride promote reproductive growth in tomato plants in hydroponic systems.

Some are classed as Plant Growth Promoting Bacteria (PGPB) and can produce plant growth regulators, iron chelating compounds, and antibiotics.

We have kind of given fungi a bad name. But those above are beneficial. Plants can nurture mycorrhiza (fungus-root) by providing it with carbons, sugars, created in the leaves of the plants and moved down to the fungi via the roots. The fungi in turn transfer nutrient to the plant. It is a classic symbiotic relationship requiring a favorable environment. Both members, plants and microbes, work to maintain that environment – if we let them.

These fungi are known as Arbuscular Mycorrhizal Fungi (AMF). AM fungi can increase the uptake of the less soluble phosphorus sources by converting them to bioavailable phosphorus. AM fungi also acquire nitrogen. There are other functions still being discovered. AMF colonies take weeks to mature, 70 to 80 days in NFT systems. So AMF is not a good solution for short-life crops.

But they are often pitched as always useful when their usefulness depends on situations that simply may not exist in the individual hydroponic system. Don’t take every sales pitch as gospel.

In any non-sterile system, pathogens are usually out-numbered by harmless organisms. But not all harmless bacteria are efficient at overpowering harmful pathogens. We have to choose carefully which beasties we want to promote. But the benefits can be great.

Bacillus subtilis, a Gram-positive bacterium, is well known as a plant growth enhancer with the ability to decrease high salinity concentrations of water or nutrient solution. Bacillus amyloliquefaciens was shown to increase efficiency of water use in tomatoes. Pseudomonas spp. (spp meaning multiple species) show antagonistic and antifungal activity against Fusarium graminearum and prevent root rot, whereas treatment of hydroponically grown tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, and potatoes bring about increased root and shoot weight and reduce root rot. P. chlororaphis on peppers in a hydroponic system was effective in suppressing infection of P. aphanidermatum and P. dissotocum and in controlling root rot. S. griseoviridis produces its own fungicides and is effective in reducing plant diseases caused by Rhizoctonia solani (collar rot), Verticillium spp. (verticillium wilt) and Fusarium spp. (root rot) in cucumbers and tomatoes. 

For beneficial bacteria to thrive in a hydroponic environment, they need ideal conditions. Most hydroponic nutrient sets lack the organic carbon sources bacteria need. One of the best sources of what they need is molasses. Not only does it contain the needed sugars, it provides micronutrients for the bacteria. Kelp and fish products also contribute to the bacteria. Some microbe products include it.

Some products have been tested and are government registered. But most have not. Preparation of commercial products is difficult and involved. Studies of quality have sometimes been alarming. Between 2013 and 2015, lab tests at the Oregon Department of Agriculture on some purported beneficial bacteria and fungi products sold in hydroponics outlets found that beneficial microbes claimed to be providing “Not Detected”. One report characterized a number of popular products from more than one famous maker claiming to provide beneficials to be essentially very expensive bottled water.

They reported findings in 2016 when they were the only program in the U.S. investigating claims for microbiological products. Of 51 products, only nine met their claims. Of 14 tested for Trichoderms, none proved to meet their claims. When they tested for products with mycorrhizal fungi, an important root partner, of 17 products, only three satisfied their label claims.

One product selling for $87.50 per liter had any microbes. They could not determine if there was fraud or simply mishandling. The makers are still learning, too. We have to assume they are and testing today might come out differently from 2015. It would serve no useful purpose now, several years later, to name the very prominent companies whose products failed. But the fact that very well-known names are on the list should serve as a caution not to accept all claims are accurate. One of the failings was products that provided fewer than the claimer microbes, and it matters whether there is enough provided to overcome pathogens.

And one should be careful about expectations. If you don’t have a pathogen load and do have a compliment of beneficial microbes already, don’t expect stunning results from an inoculant. It’s perfectly legitimate to demand a copy of third-party lab analysis. The cost is so trivial that failing to have it done is highly suspicious. You also want only products with use-by dates, and obviously you should only but those products that are still in date. There is always a shelf life. Make the people who want your money prove that you will get something for it.

We talk about sterile hydroponic systems, but that’s largely a fantasy. Studies have found hydroponic systems to have about 10,000,000 bacteria and fungi per milliliter of nutrient solution. That’s somewhere in the middle range of compost. Of course, soil growing depends heavily, entirely one might say, on the microbes in it.

A hydroponic solution that starts out sterile is populated very quickly, in less than a day for some species. Most of those are like Pseudomonas fluorescens, beneficial bacteria. The areas we care about are root zones, and they harbor vastly more microbes than the solution. Again, many are very beneficial. Where there’s roots, there’s microbes, soil or hydro.

There’s a truth that hydroponic growing shares with soil growing. Poorly managed soil has few microbes. Poorly managed hydroponic systems also harbor few microbes. And when that happens, just as in soil, plants are at a huge disadvantage.

We have healthy management techniques available in place of sterilization. One most have heard of is inoculating with beneficial microbes. One we don’t do much is incorporating compost in our rooting medium. Also, use of sand filters that build up a community of useful flora that can intercept harmful microbes during circulation.

Nutrient balance can be tweaked once one is aware of how it interacts with the good and bad microbes.

One substance that I wasn’t aware of until I began researching this is chitosan. It’s a sugar made from the shells of shellfish. It has lots of uses. One is that it boosts the natural ability of plants to defend against fungal infections. It is a relatively new means of biological control, and it can do everything from reduce plant stress to increasing yields. It’s been to space to improve plants in orbit.

We need to understand something of the workings of the community of microbes, good and bad, in our systems. The medium makes a difference. Rock wool, for all its faults, is rapidly colonized by bacteria and fungi. Inorganic substrates are mainly colonized by bacteria. Organic substrates by fungi. In tomato cropping, bacteria were present in larger qualities in rock wool than in peat. With fungus, it was the reverse. This also gives us clues to which media are more prone to particular pathogens. Pythium, the cause of root rot, likes rock wool, probably because of its higher water content. A good lesson where root rot is a problem. Keeping rock wool higher and drier reduces incidence of root rot. Coir and Perlite were less amenable to Pythium.

Bacteria and fungi also have their own preferences for neighborhoods. Both fungi and roots prefer roots to living in the nutrient solution. And the communities on roots and in nutrient are different. Plants can exude substances to attract specific microbes they wish to host. (They’re not thinking - it’s the way they evolved.) These are very complex communities with very complex relationships among their members, and a great deal of work is still to be done studying them.

Most any plant pathogen can find some advantage to living in a hydroponic system. They are very aggressive and have many millions of years of evolutionary development on their side. One result is that disinfecting recirculating nutrient systems generally does no real good. Disinfection creates a void in which microbes can rebound free from competition. And disinfection methods wipe out the beneficial microbes that do far more for plants than just fight off pathogens.

And when we try to manage our environment’s microflora to suppress plant disease, we find that laboratory studies do not necessarily agree with real performance in a growing environment. In other words, we can’t always confidently pick the beneficial microbes for the job we want done.

And we often intentionally remove materials from our systems and thereby unintentionally remove nutrients beneficial microbes need. The main source of nutrients are plant exudates, muscigel (a slimy substance covering the root crown of a plant), dead root cells, and other organic debris. Compost, both dry and tea, has been tried as an alternative to peat substrate. Compost seems to have provided beneficial microbes with nutrients they needed.

What is clear to date is that the notion that plants could be grown free of soilborne organisms was not realistic. The pathogens know how to adapt, and they are everywhere. But while hydroponics presents an environment favorable to disease, it also makes it possible to control those diseases by managing beneficial microbes, and it can be done in this controlled environment easier than in soil. Soil growing will learn how to do it from hydroponic models.

If sterilization doesn’t work, what does? The approach gaining favor is to begin with a clean and sterile water source. Then, add nutrients. Then inoculate the nutrient solution with beneficial microbes to give them a head start and a chance to dominate the environment and suppress any pathogens before the plants suffer. This is a relatively simple approach with little guesswork.

We have to do the rest of our part. Our seedlings need to be healthy. We need to aerate well. And we generally need to limit organic matter in the system to the small amounts needed. The microbes we want work well in our inorganic nutrient sets. But nutrient can kill off mycorrhiza, the symbiotic relationship between fungi and roots. We may therefore need to provide the myco products ourselves. Bacteria can usually stand concentrated synthetic nutrients.

We know, of course, that a major difference between hydroponic growing and soil growing is that soil contains microbes that can break down soil fertilizers for plant use and that these are generally lacking in hydroponic systems. But we do have uses for bacteria. They can exude hormones that enhance plant growth, improve plant response to stress and stomata function.

It is safe to add beneficial bacteria to your system, although it may not be necessary if you’re not killing everything periodically. You should add beneficial bacteria once per week. It should be done after nutrient feeding to avoid bad effects on the developing microbe community. And never again use hydrogen peroxide to fight pathogens. Use their natural enemies.

Some inoculant sets combine microbes that only colonize roots and some that will colonize nutrient solution. If the mix is added to the nutrient, a lot of it will not find a home and will die and decompose. One solution is to add them to the nutrient a few days before it’s time to change nutrient. If nutrient is simply drained, inoculants attached to the roots will survive the change.

One general factor is the effect of nutrients upon beneficial fungi. The fungi are most effective in deficient nutrient environments. Nitrogen and phosphorus, when present in normal target amounts, reduce the colonization of fungi.

You have to trust your maker of microbial inoculant, but make them earn it. At the very least, your maker should commit to a third-party analysis that reports cfu per milliliter of each claimed microbe. CFU means Colony Forming Unit and is a measure of the number of viable bacterial or fungal cells. It is best if you are given actual microscopic counts of viable cells, rather than using a haemocytometer, which counts all cells, living and dead.

But finding such an analysis will be the exception. Few makers offer anything but general statements about containing beneficial bacteria or fungi or both. Some offer one named bacteria, which is fine, because they tell you how much there is and what it might do. Some simply imply that they offer some mix that is intended to dominate the root zone to the detriment of pathogens. Some include only microbes. Some add nutrients supporting those microbes. Some use packaged products only. Some begin with products and continuously grow their inoculant.

I most cases, you won’t know very much at all. You can’t depend on user reviews. Confirmation bias is hard at work in our field more than many others. People are prone to see improvements when there are none. And they are very prone to judge their choice as the best of all choices with no justification other then if was their choice and they believe it worked.

You can in general choose things like Hydroguard with its one proven ingredient. Or you can use something like Great White with an array of microbes. Because the benefits vary among microbes, my feeling is to use the shotgun.

You’re going to find a lot of this rather vague. It is. For all the bold boasts of makers, there is still not a lot known about using beneficial microbes. Even less work has been specific to hydroponics. Clearly, in this war, there’s going to be some cannon fodder and some losses. The net outcome should be beneficial and can have great benefit for people who report chronic root rot problems they have not solved by sterilizing. Inoculants in these cases must be a preventative, not a cure. But when the system is wiped clean by sterilizing, which won’t hold for more than a few hours, inoculants can prevent the resurgence of pathogens who will take advantage of the void.

I believe that without question, we are moving beyond the old appeal of the fantasy of sterile systems and on to something we probably should have immediately recognized, that the biosphere evolved as a unit, plants and their associated microbes, good and bad, and we should not have asked more of methods that striped away a whole empowering aspect of soil culture. With hydroponics, we still have control. And I think it’s not inconceivable that by knowledgeable use of beneficial microbes, along with our nutritional precision, we might actually realize the hope that hydroponics would outperform conventional soil in a way that most growers could grasp.

I normally like to provide some resources for study, but it’s very sparse outside of very finely focused research papers. I find the books to be mostly collections of papers, some that sound interesting and some that frankly seem to be included at a stretch to fill the books, which are usually very expensive. Almost all are authored in India. India and Pakistan where the field appears to be far more advanced, at least academically.

 

Tuesday, December 14, 2021

My Favorit Subject - Plant Edema

 

A lot of this will be old stuff for many people. But I’m really interested in complex plant mechanics and plant responses to the demands of the environment. And transpiration, which is the topic of this post, is a major function that is essential to multiple aspects of plant function and health.

Plants use very little of the water they take up. 97% to 99% leaves the plant during transpiration. Plant transpiration is a significant portion of evapotranspiration, the sum of all movement of water from the surface to the atmosphere. Plant transpiration accounts for about 10% of evapotranspiration. An acre of corn transpires 3,000 to 5,000 gallons of water every day. That’s a 3-foot deep, 12 foot by 16 foot swimming pool. Every day.

Plants can evaporate water though the surfaces of leaves, flowers and stems, but most of it is from stomata on leaves. Stomata are fascinating structures. They are pores controlled by lip-like features that can swell and shrink to open and close the access to the pore. Stomata are essential to photosynthesis. They open to let in carbon dioxide for photosynthesis. And when they are open, water from leaf tissues evaporates – if air conditions allow it.

This photo shows a leaf stomata with its guard cells open and closed.


 

Leaves also have a waxy outer layer that can pass some water when stomata are closed. And lenticles, small openings in the bark of some plants, can pass small amounts of water.

Transpiration plays an important regulatory function. Transpiration drives the process of moving water with nutrients from the roots throughout the plant. The most accepted theory is that a “Cohesion-Tension” mechanism works through the property of water sticking to itself to pull water upward. The rate of transpiration, then, is closely paired with plant growth and production. Remarkably, the phenomenon of water movements in plants, as a result of transpiration producing tension, was described in Stephen Hales in 1727.

When we understand the ways in which water movement can be disrupted, many of the symptoms of plant problems are explained. Bacteria and fungi that attack roots, especially when weakened by lack of air, destroy the surface that absorbs water. When leaves are afflicted with pathogens, their evaporative surfaces may be destroyed, the function of stomata may be altered and the integrity of the waxy cuticle may be disrupted. Insect pests can also disrupt all of those. Pathogens internal to the plant and the byproducts they throw off may block pathways in the plant. Browning, dying, curling leaves can be signs of water disruption.

Transpiration maintains water balance. As we said earlier, plants take in a lot of water. Transpiration is the means of removing excess water that has done its job. A single corn plant may take in 200 liters of water over its life. It has to go somewhere.

Water also keeps plant cells full and expanded to their normal size. Plants manipulate the water pressure in cells to create needed movement. And in fact, it’s water pressure itself that operates the stomata openings that regulate water. It is water that give plants their firm structure and shape.

And transpiration also cools plants as the water passed out of stomata evaporates. Changing liquid water into vapor consumes energy, transferring heat to the vapor and cooling the plant as it is removed.

Transpiration operates because of what is called a water vapor pressure deficit in the surrounding air. Vapor pressure inside the leaf tissue is higher than vapor pressure in the air. The difference, the deficit in the vapor pressure of the air, is what makes water vapor tend to move out of the leaves. And vapor pressure then becomes lower in the leaf tissue than in the plant’s stem, which has a lower vapor pressure then the roots, so water is drawn upward, carrying nutrients with it.

But that means that there must be a proper vapor pressure deficit in the air for transpiration to occur and the proper tension to exist. Transpiration is most active when the humidity of the surrounding air is low and when high temperature and windy conditions facilitate evaporation. And because stomata open to admit carbon dioxide, CO2 levels in the air influence transpiration.

It is useful to look at why plants need such large quantities of water. To make sugars, plants require carbon dioxide for photosynthesis. But when stomata are open to receive carbon dioxide, a lot of water is lost relative to a small amount of CO2 admitted. 400 water molecules for each molecule of CO2. There is then a fine balance. If stomata stay open too long taking in CO2, the plant risks dehydration. It takes a lot of water intake to keep up.

There are three conditions that must be met for transpiration to take place. First, water must be available in the leaf. There must be energy available to convert water to water vapor, and there must be a pressure gradient to cause vapor to flow from inside the leaf to the outside. That pressure gradient must be sufficient to move vapor beyond the boundary layer that surrounds the leaf surface. The boundary layer is a thin layer of air adhering to the leaf. This boundary layer creates some resistance to vapor movement. That resistance is affected by wind speed across the leaf. The faster the wind, the thinner the boundary layer. Resistance is greater on large leaves than on small leaves. This boundary layer is very thin, on the order of 0.5mm.

There is a range of Vapor Pressure Deficits within which a plant can manage water by transpiration. If the pressure on the atmosphere side is too high, water vapor inside the leaf cannot move out. If the pressure on the atmosphere side is too low, tension builds inside the plant tissues, and a gas bubble forms in the plant’s water conduits, blocking flow. This can happen during drought when tension becomes so high it pulls water into the empty conduit, creating a void in the water column. Anything that breaks the continuity of water moving through the plant disrupts its flow until the plant can activate a mechanism that brings water into the void until it disperses the blockage.

Air temperature and humidity determine the vapor pressure in the environment. Wind speed also plays a part. And since photosynthesis and transpiration are intimately linked, transpiration increases in light as stomata open to take in CO2 for photosynthesis.

So, let’s look at the all-important Vapor Pressure Deficit. For our purposes, VPD is the difference between the actual water vapor pressure and the saturation water vapor pressure at a given temperature. To put it another way, it is the difference between the amount of water in the air and how much water is could hold if it were saturated, loaded with water until it could hold no more. The closer to saturation, the less water the air can accept from sources like leaf transpiration. We can express the amount of water in the air relative to how much it could hold at a given temperature. That’s the relative humidity. So VPD can be calculated from the factors temperature and relative humidity.

And that’s what we see in a VPD chart.  This is a VPD chart showing VPD for combinations of temperature and relative humidity.


For each stage of plant growth, clone, vegetative and flower, we can define the VPD values that will facilitate the most efficient transpiration.

Here’s is the chart tinted to show the optimum VPD values for vegetative stage. 

 


 

Values in the deepest green area are considered to provide the VPD environment for the most efficient transpiration. The orange regions contain VPD values too low or two high for efficient transpiration.

Note two important things. For a given relative humidity, a higher temperature results in a greater Vapor Pressure Deficit, a greater difference between how much how much water the air contains as expressed by the relative humidity and how much water the air can hold. And for a given temperature, lower relative humidity creates a greater VPD value, again, a greater difference between how much how much water the air contains as expressed by the relative humidity and how much water the air can hold.

Note that, as expected, when relative humidity is high and rising toward 100%, toward saturation, the Vapor Pressure Deficit becomes most unfavorable to transpiration. When relative humidity is 90% or more, VPD is unfavorable at all temperatures. Of course, we know all transpiration doesn’t stop at those high temperature, because we have plants growing in hot seasons.

We should note, too, that VPD can be too high as well as too low. Generally, only those of us growing in warm and very dry conditions will experience that risk.

You can readily see that, for the vegetative growth stage, the most favorable region of VPD values are in the deep green area where those values are close to 1.0, best growth being with values from 0.8 to 1.2 kPa (kiloPascals – you don’t need to know that). But it’s not all or nothing. As the green fades toward orange, VPD values move away from the optimum.

Air movement is not used in this chart, except for a small general factor, Wind, as from a fan playing on the plants, will improve the situation.

Another important point is that the optimum VPD depends also on leaf temperature relative to the surroundings. The above chart was generated for leaf temperature 2 degrees F below the environment. The color bands shift left for leaf temperatures closer to room temperature and shift right for temperatures as much as 5 degrees cooler than the room.

The consequence of out of range VPD is often edema. It was once more commonly called intumescence. Edema implies swelling, congestion with water, although that sign is not always present. Swelling is most often in leaf tissues between the veins. Another common sign is the appearance of lesions that begin to go brown in time. They do not resemble most pest damage. Nor do they look very much like most nutrient deficiencies.  They may appear initially as if the top layer of tissue were skinned off. Sometimes, they appear as small brown points. They are created when stomata cannot open, and water backs up in the tissues, eventually breaking through the surface. Another common sign is tiny white or clear crystals of nutrient mineral left behind when leaked solution evaporates.

 

These leaves show the small browning lesions where tissues have ruptured.


 

This next leaf shows larger lesions. Note that it is an understory leaf and therefore more likely to have a higher humidity region just above the surface of the leaf.

 


 

This next leaf displays very distinct swellings between the leaf veins.



 

The following basil leaves show both tissues swelling and small points of rupture.



 

This leaf shows broad lesions filled with  nutrient crystal left behind with the water from the leaked nutrient solution evaporated.



 

 

This Romaine lettuce displays gross swellings. Romaine naturally has apparent swollen area that help give its prized crispness, but they should not be this prominent.



 

These leaves show very dramatic swelling that appear ready to burst.



 

Because VPD problems can disorder transpiration that facilitates movement of water carrying nutrient within the plant, signs of apparent nutrient deficiency may appear, not because there is any problem with the nutrient in the reservoir but because nutrient cannot reach the areas of the plant where it is needed. When edema goes unchecked, it can prevent the proper movement of water, resulting in browning and drying of leaves as if the plant were deprived of water.

These signs often distract from the more specific signs of edema, prompting guesses at what nutrients may be deficient when the true need is simply to correct the edema. That is too bad, because it’s often that case that the signs of edema become easily observed as soon as edema is considered to be a possibility.

While noting temperature and humidity and referring to a VPD chart may make diagnosis easy, it is possible to have VPD disordered at the surface of the leaf, even though sensors just outside the growing surface show favorable conditions. Often, the out of range VPD exists very locally around tightly packed understory leaves that get little air movement.

When edema is even barely suspected, it is an easy rule-out. Reducing high humidity and/or temperature and playing a small fan on plants can do nothing but help the plant and is an immediate therapy that takes no time to take effect. When a proper complete hydroponic nutrient set is being used as recommended by its manufacturer and its maintenance is current and E.C. and pH within range, nutrient deficiencies are unlikely. And edema produces signs similar to those of nutrient deficiencies, but deficiencies will require days to confirm during which possible edema can already be being addressed.

 

The following are the other VPD charts for cloning and flowering growth stages.

Clone Stage VPD Chart - Leaf Temp 2F below Air


 

Flower Stage VPD Chart - Leaf Temp 2F Below Air



 

You can also download VPD charts is a slightly different format and for different variations in leaf temperature from DimLux North America here:

https://www.dimluxlighting.com/knowledge/blog/vapor-pressure-deficit-the-ultimate-guide-to-vpd/

 

Note that VPD can be a clue to cause of edema, but it's other effects vary with species. And an ideal VPD for growth may not be ideal for flowering. 

Remember that edema can present in different ways and remember to consider it when any such signs are present.

In addition to fixing temperature and/or humidity, I can't emphasize enough the value of maintaining air movement, especially in tight spaces and dense foliage. A small fan can often clear up edema. And air movement has other real benefits to plants.

Wednesday, December 8, 2021

An Off-the-Shelf Small Volume Venturi Aerator

Another entry that’s not so very profound. But I thought it might save someone else from putting effort into a similar attempt.

I changed over all my DWC tanks from air stones to venturi aerators to reduce noise in the greenhouse. But as I am using them, they are somewhat large for a 3.5-gallon or 5-gallon bucket, the common sort that is about twelve inches in diameter.

My goal was to see if I could make up a venturi aerator that would be a better fit in a bucket.

My current venturi consists of my usual pump, a Vivosun 800GPH, 24 watt pump, which I now find is no longer available on Amazon. The venturi section is a $6.20 1/2” plastic venturi from Amazon. It has been a good combination, because the venturi has a ½” NPT male thread that fits the pump’s NPT female discharge. The combination has been effective and has performed well in ten-gallon totes and 20-gallon barrels.


I first wanted to see just how small a pump was capable of producing a satisfactory stream of small air bubbles. I obtained an 80 GPH Aquaneat pump for $5.79 from Amazon. One-tenth the rate of the Vivosun, but the Vivosun was $23. And the Aquaneat was indeed physically much smaller and would be a substantial gain in space, if it worked.

 



I tried it with my standard venturi. But it simply did not have the power to produce any appreciable amount of air injection, as you can see here.


 

I then made up a mini-venturi for it by inserting a small tubing with a beveled cut end into a larger ½” tubing. I tried it as it was and with a smaller tubing telescoped inside the ½” tube before the air tap to increase velocity. Results were unsatisfactory. I tried that set-up again, but with a small barb irrigation tubing connector with a modified beveled end. It was similarly poor. The makeshift venturi produced some bubbles, but I believe it was insufficient to reliably aerate a 5-gallon vessel.




This wasn’t to surprising. The pump was weak, and while I believe a small pumps can produce some marginal aeration, it will require very careful design and construction can considerable cut and try to get it right.DIY venturis for pumps like my original are fairly easy to make without too much fiddling, but at $6 for an off the shelf venturi ready to thread into a pump discharge, I did not deem DIY worthwhile. And the off the shelf venturi has a spring loaded air valve protecting the air line from being pumped into, a necessity, should the venturi discharge become clogged, which would pump the whnole volume of nutrient out of the air line and possibly out of the reservoir. 

I then turned to a pump that, at 480 GPH, was less powerful than the 800 GPH Vivosun, but was somewhat physically smaller and several dollars cheaper. It is also a Vivosun, costing $18 on Amazon. Like the larger Vivosun, it has a ½” NPT female discharge.


 

A quick test with the venturi showed that it was as capable as its larger cousin of aerating the same volumes. But I had gained very little toward my goal to save space.

Now, I examined the shape of the venturi I was using. It is very much conventional, with a short run of decreasing diameter before the air tap, and a section expanding again after the tap. Normally the discharge end is intended to be connected to an irrigation hose that will receive the water and the fertilizer the venturi it injecting. I needed no such connection and reasoned that if all the expanding section was doing was expand, it made no difference how it expanded. So I cut away the last 2.5 inches of the venturi.


 

I tested it and could detect no reduction in aeration from cutting it off short.

 



But between the smaller pump and removing the excess venturi body, it brought the length of the combination down to just under six inches. It is shown above in the bottom of a clear vessel similar to the diameter of 3.5-gallon and 5-gallon common buckets. There is ample space to discharge the bubble stream.

The total cost, then, is about $24.20. There are no additional adapters required.

Previously, I was aerating six DWC containers with a 32 watt air pump for $45 and six air stones for about $10, or, with stop valves and tubing, about $60 for six tanks. So this is costing me a bit more than twice as much per reservoir, but the cost to my nerves of working around six very noisy air pumps is, for me, worth the difference as one-time costs. The venturis are virtually silent. And with the air pumps, I had to be vigilant to keep all the meandering air tubes from being pulled out of the manifolds.

Certainly not a complete exploration of the issues, but, if nothing else, it provides a way to install venturi aeration in a 3.5 o5 5-gallon bucket or similar without crowding. The original pump or similar would also fit comfortably with the cut down venturi.And if one wanted to fit it into an even smaller space, two 90-degree elbows could fold the venturi back alongside the pump. 


 FOLLOW-UP.: I tried another pump, smaller and rated less than the green 800GPH, but although it rated higher than the black one, it drew only a little air.